Camp Dyon Express KS Dyneema Quickdraw
The Dyon Express KS Dyneema is a hyperlight, dual wire-gate quickdraw, with weight-shedding and performance-enhancing features that make it ideal for alpinism and minimalist rock climbing.
To save weight, Camp have done a few things with the two KeyWire carabiners of the Dyon Express KS Dyneema to reduce their weight and improve upon their performance. A two-part gate combines the smooth action of wired-gates with the safety of Camp’s patented SphereLock closure system, a design meant to minimise the play between the gate and nose, thus reducing the chance of accidental openings. The ‘biners spines are of an I-Beam construction that sheds unnecessary weight whilst retaining high rigidity. Dyneema dogbones provide outstanding levels of durability and resistance to heat and cold, for all climates and a long-life, and are also equipped with the useful Karstop Evo carabiner retainer on the rope end to hold the rope ‘biner always in the ready-to-clip position. Best for lightweight performance.
|WEIGHT||78 g, 2.8 oz|
|MAJOR AXIS STRENGTH||21kN|
|MINOR AXIS STRENGTH||7kN|
|OPEN GATE STRENGTH||11kN|
Full Features List
• Hyperlight, extremely strong and durable quickdraw with smooth wire-gate action, for alpinism and rock climbing
• SphereLock closure system is an improved performance, safer version of the traditional keylock
• I-Beam construction removes weight where it won’t affect strength, resulting in a much lighter carabiner
• Dyneema is exceptionally durable and resistant to hot and cold, and is trademarked as “the world’s strongest fiber”
• Karstop Evo carabiner retainer keeps the rope end ‘biner securely in place for easier clipping
1 product review
This is the best wiregate on the market right now.
I've used the heliums, the chimeras, the anges, and other snagless-nose wiregates, and none of them come close to the narrow nose profile of the dyon. The Dyon enables me to get the carabiner quickly into places (bolts/pitons) where there's not a ton of room, saving that split second where I don't have time to get hung up clipping or unclipping the carabiner.
Many standard wiregates have a loop of wire that rounds towards the top, making it a bit of a challenge (that you eventually get used to) to hold it in the open position. The Dyon doesn't have that problem. In fact, the interface between the tip of the gate and the wire portion make a great notch to hold with your thumb as you're positioning the carabiner to clip. The spring action on the wiregate is also relatively light, smooth, and predictable. The weight, combined with the ease of clipping, and the generous size of the carabiner make these the best all-around carabiner I've used.
The 20cm quickdraw is very light and provides enough extension that I leave most of my alpine draws at home now. I like the Dyon draws so much that I also take these along for sport and aid climbs. All in all, they feel very well made. They're expensive, but definitely not overpriced. What's amazing is being able to get them for the best price delivered to the West Coast of the US in a 2-3 days from EpicTV. It's a no brainer if you're upgrading your rack.