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Scarpa Vapor V Climbing Shoe
The Scarpa Vapor V is an all-round performance climbing shoe designed to break conventions and be a "performance shoe with instant comfort". Designed by Heinz Mariacher, the man behind many of La Sportiva's classics like the Katana, Miura, and Mythos, the Vapor V's focus on comfort without the sacrifice of comfort is purpose-built for beginner climbers seeking an entry into the world of performance climbing shoes or the further advanced who require all-day comfort in a soft, technical shoe.
Scarpa have achieved this performance comfort in a few main ways. The Bi-Tension rand does the opposite of a slingshot rand: rather than painfully jam the toes forward, the rand connects beneath the toes and pulls backwards to the heel structure to decrease tension, providing the same amount of precision but with less toe pain. The inner is soft suede leather with an almost luxurious feel to it, and the tongue is perforated to enhance breathability.
As for design, the Vapor V is on the technical side of performance all-rounders. Its soft midsole, toe rubber, and stepped heel cup provide performance on technical boulder problems and overhanging terrain, but the firm Vibram XS Edge rubber maintains stability on edges. The inner is lined suede leather, so expect it to stretch up to a half size.
|Upper material|| |
Suede / Microsuede
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|Sizing and fit|| |
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Edge
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Vibram XS Edge™
Rubber compound built for maximum performance on micro holds and extreme edging. This formula uses an improved plastic deformation resistance that ensures the utmost stability, rigidity, and support on footholds in hot or cold weather, as well as generally increasing durability.
A rand that that pulls power from the toes to achieve performance with less tension and less painful toe cramming. The Bi-Tension Rand also reduces the amount of rubber needed under the toes, which means lower weight and higher sensitivity.
9 product reviews
Bought this in a very snug fit and found them excellent for routes bouldering and gym climbing. They wore through after about 8 months regular use which is reasonable, As they don't stretch much I would recommend that you buy yours in a more comfortable fit
This shoes feel great, took me a while to fund shoes that fit my wide feet well but these shoes fit perfect straight out of the box. Super comfortable and sticky
I had been climbing with a pair of beginner Climb-X shoes for a while and decided to get a pair of more intermediate shoes. Instantly i could notice the improvement they provided. The sole is more sensitive so it's easier to feel where I'm placing my feet instead of blindly placing them and hoping for the best. In addition the slight downturn allows me to keep my feet on the wall on steeper problems, whilst not being too aggressive to provide discomfort. The extra rubber on the toe and notches on the heel make heel hooking and toe hooking easier. Finally, although it's not really relevant to climbing, they are a very stylish looking pair of shoes.
The only slight problem is that the shoes fart when establishing on the wall, though this doesn't bother me.
I bought these in my usual street shoe size and they fit perfectly, nice and snug. Definitely worth the money if you're looking for a nice intermediate shoe that provides performance whilst not being too uncomfortable.
These are very comfortable all-round shoes, they fit well straight out of the box and don't stretch much at all. A wide toe box adds to the comfort, but might sacrifice a tiny bit of sensitivity on smaller edges and smears.
Slightly downturned, medium stiffness midsole, though they feel pretty flat when wearing them. This newer version of the Vapour V adds some rubber to the toes for better hooks and jams, and a little structure to the heel rubber, for better heel hooks. The 2 velcro straps allow you to really lock down. Climbed indoor and out, boulders, different rocks types, and they performed well especially considering their comfort. For more performance at a sacrifice of comfort, look for more aggressive shoes.
Owned two pairs of the previous generation and armed with the knowledge that these were built on the same last, getting this newer version was a no-brainer.
I upgraded to these as a more technical pair of rocks boots and have instantly noticed an improvement in edging, allowing me to do far more technical climbs. They are also forgiving for wider feet as I have found it difficult to fit into other boots of the same size.