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Scarpa Mago Climbing Shoe
The Scarpa Mago is an award-winning, all-round climbing shoe designed for sensitivity and precision on everything from overhanging and technical Melloblocco bouldering to the polished classics in Arco. A medium-stiffness, powerful downturn, and performance randing system is designed for effortlessly flowing between steeper technical routes and vertical edges, making this shoe ideal for both the sport climber and boulderer or those seeking a versatile shoe for varied and demanding sport climbs.
The Scarpa Mago is designed to be adaptable, but with a particular focus on power. XS Grip2 rubber provides maximum friction on polished rock and smears as well as requiring less effort stay adhered to steeper holds, but it's the X-Tension active rand and the Toe Power Support insert that make the Mago so precise and powerful. X-Tension randing (an x-shaped rand that envelops the shoe) directs power through the big toe but doesn't surround it, which would reduce its sensitivity, and the Toe Power Support stiffening insert enhances stiffness only where it's needed to enhance edging power. This is a true performance all-rounder the true performance climber.
For sizing, the Mago uses a suede upper with a microsuede toe-box, so expect there to be stretch of up to half a size.
|Upper material|| |
|Closure type|| |
|Sizing and fit|| |
0.45 kg (Size 40 EU)
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Grip 2
|Sole thickness|| |
Vibram XS Grip2™
Rubber compound built for pure friction, recommended for use where maximum grip is the primary need - bouldering and sport climbing, indoor climbing, or extremely smooth, polished routes.
A critically tensioned rubber "X" that cradles the forefoot and grabs the heel, enhancing toe power - for climbers who like the maximum power and sensitivity concentrated under the big toe.
Full Features List
• A special soft form of rubber makes up the Scarpa high-friction toe patch. Because the rubber is so soft, it creates more friction between the shoe and the rock which results in easier toe-hooking.
• Toe Power Support stiffening insert enhances edging ability
• Rock and Ice 5*, "Best in Gear" Rock and Ice
3 product reviews
Top performance shoes, very good in overhangs or for smearing in vertical walls! Lace up system and split sole definitly work together in this model. Would recommend to anyone who must be precise, fast or dealing with sticky demanding climbs- Hope to keep producing it in the future:))
7 years back I bought my first pair of Scarpa Mago's and used them mainly for high end sport climbing but especially for traditional crack climbing in Ettringen in Germany. They are superb for that. The upper leader and tow pad gives protection to the tows when pushing it into a crack preventing too much pain. The sole is also perfect to stand on small edges. I treat them well so they last very long. Now with a new pair I can enjoy again many new routes.
These are brilliant on polished peak limestone, the grip 2 rubber is soft enough for my lighter frame and whilst they might not last as long as some shoes their life span is acceptable. The TPS (toe power support) makes the smallest of holds useful, but they can still smear. They break in pretty quickly (I have fairly wide feet, but the lacing down to the toe makes them very adaptable) and are comfortable enough once they have but not my choice for all day multi pitch. Towards the end of their life I've found them to work really well on gritstone. I've had three pairs and will buying a forth soon they are my go to boot for my hardest red points and on sights.