Scarpa Instinct VSR Climbing Shoe
The Scarpa Instinct VSR is the soft and supple climbing shoe of the Instinct family tree, with a technical and sensitive design made for hard sport climbing and bouldering.
The Scarpa Instinct VSR shares a similar design to its sister shoe, the Scarpa Instinct VS, but it features a velcro closure for a more precise fit as well as a slightly thicker rubber for better durability. With a focus on friction over edging, the Instinct VSR is better suited to overhanging and steep routes, glassy and polished rock, and smearing on slabs. The Instinct family is known for its high levels of sensitivity, and the VSR is no different. The signature Bi-Tension rand, which drives power through the toes without causing discomfort, and the high-friction toe patch, for maximum grip during toe-hooks, that make the Instinct family so renowned still feature on the Instinct VRS, but it's its softer nature and XS Grip 2 rubber that makes it the golden child for technical sport routes and hard boulder problems. Also ideal for lighter climbers.
The Instinct VSR features a microsuede upper which will break-in, but will not stretch. This will maintain the shoe's performance over its entire lifespan. Size accordingly.
Tech specs
| Upper material | Microsuede |
| Flex | Soft |
| Closure type | Velcro |
| Sizing and fit | Medium Foot |
| Color | Blue / Black |
| Weight | 0.43 kg (Size 40 EU) |
| Last | Medium Asymmetry |
| Sole material | Vibram XS Grip 2 |
| Sole thickness | 3.5mm |
| Profile | Moderate Downturn |
| Lining | Unlined |
Features
Vibram XS Grip2™
Rubber compound built for pure friction, recommended for use where maximum grip is the primary need - bouldering and sport climbing, indoor climbing, or extremely smooth, polished routes.
Bi-Tension Rand™
A rand that that pulls power from the toes to achieve performance with less tension and less painful toe cramming. The Bi-Tension Rand also reduces the amount of rubber needed under the toes, which means a lower weight and a higher sensitivity.
Full Features List
• Specialised toe patch is made from softer rubber for high-friction toe-hooking
• Lorica® upper allows for zero stretch, maintaining the same performance-fit forever
• Floating velcro strap secures the fit without affecting suppleness
This is my second pair of Instinct VSRs - in both my new and my old pairs, the fit feels almost tailored to my feet with the slight exception of the heel, where there is a bit of extra room. As my last pair began to wear significantly, this extra room caused the shoe to slip off my foot in aggressive heel hooks but to begin with, I couldn't have asked for better heel-hooking shoes (and as a shorter climber, I heel hook a lot!).
The upper velcro strap could definitely use reinforcements, as this eventually snapped entirely on one of my shoes but this was after the toe had already gone all the way through.
The rubber of the top of the shoe is very sticky and makes for excellent toe hooks, lasting even once the rest of the shoe had had it.
I had only used the shoes ~2x a week for primarily indoor bouldering for 5 months when they reached the condition as shown on the right in the photo below. However, in this time, the Instincts were unbelievably comfortable for a shoe that was so snug (I have them in 38, same as my street-shoe size) and were perfect for everything from smearing on granite slabs to plastic overhangs and I use them for sport climbing as well as bouldering. I could leave them on for longer periods of time (30min) but this could be because I didn't downsize too much.
Here is a comparison of an old shoe with a new one: http://imgur.com/a/BPEnY
Bought the shoes to replace Solutions. Fit feels quite similar, slightly more asymmetric with slightly narrower heel. Very good closure system compared to solutions\futura. Took 3-4 sessions to break in, however still cannot wear them for more then 10min.
Primary use - bouldering indoors.
Size-wise - I bought it in 39; I wear 41-41.5 in regular shoes, 38 - in LSpa Solutions\Futura; 37.5 - in Pythons; 39 - Scarpa Drago (feels much tighter due to narrower toe box).
Great service - the shoes arrived in good time and I could track my order easily which was reassuring as I live in the UK.
I am happy with the shoes - yet to use them but they arrived exactly as they were described. Great fit - especially on the heal.
The delivery box and box containing the shoes arrived quite bashed (understandably when coming from so far) but this worried me in case I had to return them. Luckily I am keeping the shoes :)
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This edgy little homeboy is way comfier than I would imagine, and to break them in takes almost no time at all. It's not the most sensitive bad boy out there, but it sticks to an edge like Alex Honnold, and it's has a nice and flexy split sole. Toe hook-orama and heel hook bonanza is some of the keywords for this thang when bouldering. Fits like a friendly glove when not down-sized.