-19%

Scarpa Instinct VSR Climbing Shoe

I'm on my second pair of VSR's, and these shoes are amazing at pretty much everything. My only complaint is they aren't great for low angle/vertical climbing being softer shoes, but if you want something stiffer the VS is a good match with the harder rubber.

Fit is great, they're not aggressively downturned or asymmetrical. So it's a comfortable fit compared to the Drago or Chimera. Heelcup feels shallow (doesn't come up the achilles much on me), but there is no dead space.

Sizing wise I have a 40.5 street shoe, my Scarpa shoes (Chimera and VSR) are all 39.5. It's a very tight but comfortable fit. Once broken in, they stretch more around the foot/toe box area. The length stays pretty much unchanged.

I have a wide foot that doesn't fit into any La Sportiva shoe except the Testarossa or the Genius. The VSR's are super tight initially, and very hard to get on. But they do fit wider feet.

After climbing in the very (sometimes too) comfortable Moccasyms for half a year, I wanted something more aggressive for my harder projects.
I bought them half a size above my street shoe size. These shoes are surprisingly comfortable, while being very snug around my entire narrow foot.
Since I love climbing slabs the most, I wanted a soft rubber for good sensitivity and also smearing. After falling in love with 5.10's Stealth c4 soles, I didn't think any other rubber would come close, but the Vibram Grip 2 feels just as nice and sticky on the wall.
The big patch of rubber on top of the shoe was also a nice surprise on the wall. Apart from a very steady toe hook, the rubber also makes flagging a bit steadier when the top of my toes are resting against the wall. But maybe I'm just flagging very weirdly, haha.
Apart from how well they feel on my feet and on the wall, I really like the badass design these shoes have.
A very good first experience with Scarpa's!

Climber profile: male / 176 cm / 77-79 kg
Used to wear 41.5 Skwama. Bought 42.5 of Instinct VSR; could possibly go down to 42.

I particularly like this pair of shoes because I am able to create a toe profile (like those with La Sportiva), and the heel is sensitive and fits nicely without the bulkiness like in Skwama or Solutions. I think this shoe is on the stiffer end which was something I looked for after the softness of Skwama. Though stiff, I am able to use them really well even on roof climb where you may need to dig your toes into the hold.

Lastly, it took me about 4 or 5 two hours indoor bouldering sessions to break them in.

I saw that Matt (on YouTube) said these were his fav bouldering shoes of 2017 and since he also said that he's a street nine (EUR 43) and has narrow feet, just like me, I was keen to give them a try. The Epic TV size calculator suggested a EUR 44 for me, but Matt said that he used a EUR 42. So I ordered those two pairs and all inbetween, so that I could find the perfect fit. I ended up going for EUR 43 - my street shoe size. The size down (EUR 42.5) just made my toes overlap and were painful to the extent that I couldn't concentrate on anything but my feet. These are good shoes. The rubber is very sticky and the sole is soft enough that you can open it up to smear, despite the aggressive downturn. The heel is a bit baggy at the bottom, but it stays in place.

My background: I'm a short (163 cm), light (54 kg), intermediate indoor climber (onsight 6c routes, top 7a+ after a few attempts) and these were the third ever pair of climbing shoes I owned.

Fit: I'm UK 7 (EU 41) on the street and went for UK 6 (EU 39.5) with the Instinct VS-R.Out of the box, the fit was perfect (in stark contrast to the Instinct Lace, which has much less give). I have wider feet and appreciate the space in the toebox. As a reference, my big and second toe are about the same distance from my heel.

As my first pair of soft shoes, I've really noticed that these shoes make it hard to focus your weight on small holds. They are unforgiving! But I'm guessing over time my technique will develop so that I'll be better able to use those toe muscles to get weight transfer. In contrast, a more rigid shoe like my Instinct Lace (featuring Vibram XS Edge) has no problems. Of course, these soft shoes (featuring Vibram XS Grip2) are smearing beasts. I never have any fear of coming off a volume on a slab or when bridging onto a wall while climbing in an indoors corner route. This grip is important, because being downturned, while advantageous for transferring weight onto holds on overhangs, is not working in their favour regarding smearing. you gotta protect these shoes - one slide down an indoor slab can take a while millimetre of rubber off the edge. I use these shoes only for hard bouldering, because even though I only climb once a week and try to climb with little foot readjustment, they do get worn fast.

I hear that the Instinct VS is somewhere between the two shoes in terms of flexibility. This might be my next purchase!

Minor point: the soles of your feet will become very orange after wearing these. You can wash the shoes with warm water to remove some dye, although make sure to let them dry thoroughly. Antifungal spray in the shoes helps keep them fresh.

Purchased them because i needed to replace my Instinct SR shoes, and that was a tough task because SR were a perfect pair of shoes for me. After a few sessions they started to break in and now the heel hooking is perfect, toe hooking is just as good. The velcro strap makes it easy to put no and off. Hope this review persuades you into purchase, cause they won't dissapoint.

Muy parecidos al instinct vs pero notablemente mas blandos. A lo mejor podria haberlos bajado medio numero con respecto a los otros, pero el ajuste es muy muy parecido. Un poco mas sensibles. Si te gusta el VS estos te gustarán como mínimo lo mismo.

This edgy little homeboy is way comfier than I would imagine, and to break them in takes almost no time at all. It's not the most sensitive bad boy out there, but it sticks to an edge like Alex Honnold, and it's has a nice and flexy split sole. Toe hook-orama and heel hook bonanza is some of the keywords for this thang when bouldering. Fits like a friendly glove when not down-sized.

This is my second pair of Instinct VSRs - in both my new and my old pairs, the fit feels almost tailored to my feet with the slight exception of the heel, where there is a bit of extra room. As my last pair began to wear significantly, this extra room caused the shoe to slip off my foot in aggressive heel hooks but to begin with, I couldn't have asked for better heel-hooking shoes (and as a shorter climber, I heel hook a lot!).

The upper velcro strap could definitely use reinforcements, as this eventually snapped entirely on one of my shoes but this was after the toe had already gone all the way through.

The rubber of the top of the shoe is very sticky and makes for excellent toe hooks, lasting even once the rest of the shoe had had it.

I had only used the shoes ~2x a week for primarily indoor bouldering for 5 months when they reached the condition as shown on the right in the photo below. However, in this time, the Instincts were unbelievably comfortable for a shoe that was so snug (I have them in 38, same as my street-shoe size) and were perfect for everything from smearing on granite slabs to plastic overhangs and I use them for sport climbing as well as bouldering. I could leave them on for longer periods of time (30min) but this could be because I didn't downsize too much.

Here is a comparison of an old shoe with a new one: http://imgur.com/a/BPEnY

Bought the shoes to replace Solutions. Fit feels quite similar, slightly more asymmetric with slightly narrower heel. Very good closure system compared to solutions\futura. Took 3-4 sessions to break in, however still cannot wear them for more then 10min.
Primary use - bouldering indoors.
Size-wise - I bought it in 39; I wear 41-41.5 in regular shoes, 38 - in LSpa Solutions\Futura; 37.5 - in Pythons; 39 - Scarpa Drago (feels much tighter due to narrower toe box).

Great service - the shoes arrived in good time and I could track my order easily which was reassuring as I live in the UK.
I am happy with the shoes - yet to use them but they arrived exactly as they were described. Great fit - especially on the heal.
The delivery box and box containing the shoes arrived quite bashed (understandably when coming from so far) but this worried me in case I had to return them. Luckily I am keeping the shoes :)