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Scarpa Instinct VSR
The Scarpa Instinct VSR is the soft and supple climbing shoe of the Instinct family tree, with a technical and sensitive design made for hard sport climbing and bouldering.
The Scarpa Instinct VSR shares a similar design to its sister shoe, the Scarpa Instinct VS, but it features a velcro closure for a more precise fit as well as a slightly thicker rubber for better durability. With a focus on friction over edging, the Instinct VSR is better suited to overhanging and steep routes, glassy and polished rock, and smearing on slabs. The Instinct family is known for its high levels of sensitivity, and the VSR is no different. The signature Bi-Tension rand, which drives power through the toes without causing discomfort, and the high-friction toe patch, for maximum grip during toe-hooks, that make the Instinct family so renowned still feature on the Instinct VRS, but it's its softer nature and XS Grip 2 rubber that makes it the golden child for technical sport routes and hard boulder problems. Also ideal for lighter climbers.
The Instinct VSR features a microsuede upper which will break-in, but will not stretch. This will maintain the shoe's performance over its entire lifespan. Size accordingly.
|Upper material|| |
|Closure type|| |
|Sizing and fit|| |
Blue / Black
0.43 kg (Size 40 EU)
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Grip 2
|Sole thickness|| |
Vibram XS Grip2™
Rubber compound built for pure friction, recommended for use where maximum grip is the primary need - bouldering and sport climbing, indoor climbing, or extremely smooth, polished routes.
A rand that that pulls power from the toes to achieve performance with less tension and less painful toe cramming. The Bi-Tension Rand also reduces the amount of rubber needed under the toes, which means a lower weight and a higher sensitivity.
Full Features List
• Specialised toe patch is made from softer rubber for high-friction toe-hooking
• Lorica® upper allows for zero stretch, maintaining the same performance-fit forever
• Floating velcro strap secures the fit without affecting suppleness
2 product reviews
Bought the shoes to replace Solutions. Fit feels quite similar, slightly more asymmetric with slightly narrower heel. Very good closure system compared to solutions\futura. Took 3-4 sessions to break in, however still cannot wear them for more then 10min.
Primary use - bouldering indoors.
Size-wise - I bought it in 39; I wear 41-41.5 in regular shoes, 38 - in LSpa Solutions\Futura; 37.5 - in Pythons; 39 - Scarpa Drago (feels much tighter due to narrower toe box).
Great service - the shoes arrived in good time and I could track my order easily which was reassuring as I live in the UK.
I am happy with the shoes - yet to use them but they arrived exactly as they were described. Great fit - especially on the heal.
The delivery box and box containing the shoes arrived quite bashed (understandably when coming from so far) but this worried me in case I had to return them. Luckily I am keeping the shoes :)