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Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoe
The Scarpa Instinct VS is the performance all-rounder of the prolific Instinct family. The Instinct VS features an ultra-precise and sensitive design, the type usually found on high-performance bouldering shoes, that allows for responsive feedback on rock with nigh-invisible footholds, but it's combined with a stiffening Flexan midsole, a precision Bi-Tension rand, and hard Vibram XS Edge rubber compound that bring it back to the performance realm of the vertical and technical edging variety. Even though it is aggressive and downturned, and with features for technical manoeuvres, the Instinct VS has been praised by climbers who express an ability to hold an edge unfounded in slipper style climbing shoes. This is all down to the innovative randing systems used by Scarpa, with the Instinct VS featuring the Bi-Tension rand that drives power through the big toe without painfully cramming the toes forward. The result is driving force without pain, discomfort, and instability.
An all-rounder with a particular focus on power and precision, the Instinct VS has been designed for effortlessly transitioning between technical faces and steep overhangs, high-end trad routes and performance boulders, all with instinctive ease. Designed for the do-it-all climber who works every style. When fitting the Instinct VS, bear in mind that the upper is synthetic, so whilst the shoe will break-in and feel more comfortable after a few uses, it will not stretch at all. This gives you a long-lasting performance fit that will never change, so it performs the same from its first day to its last.
|Upper material|| |
|Closure type|| |
|Sizing and fit|| |
Orange / Black
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Edge
|Sole thickness|| |
Vibram XS Edge™
Rubber compound built for maximum performance on micro holds and extreme edging. This formula uses an improved plastic deformation resistance that ensures the utmost stability, rigidity, and support on footholds in hot or cold weather, as well as generally increasing durability.
A rand that that pulls power from the toes to achieve performance with less tension and less painful toe cramming. The Bi-Tension Rand also reduces the amount of rubber needed under the toes, which means a lower weight and a higher sensitivity.
Full Features List
• Specialised toe patch is made from softer rubber for high-friction toe-hooking
• Lorica® upper allows for zero stretch, maintaining the same performance-fit forever
• Floating velcro strap secures the fit without affecting suppleness
19 product reviews
I've been using this shoes for one and a half months in at least 3 climbing sessions a week and I find them really nice. I'm always looking for shoes with a wide toe box and a tight heel, and this shoes comply with these characteristics really good. Despite feeling quite ''hard'' just out of the box, once you throw a couple of sessions in the rubber starts to feel softer giving the toe box some flexibility allowing you to use your toes on almost any angle and position.
The heel is comfortable and really solid, giving a lot of confidence.
Also the velcro strap feels way more solid than other velcro models.
I was a bit skeptic by the fact that the shoes would almost not stretch at all after some hard use, but I have to say that despite feeling softer (which is good), the shape, tightness, and tension remains as during the first sessions. I'm quite impressed about it.
As for sizing, downsizing half a size from my street shoe worked perfectly, which is also half a size less than what the ''size recommendation'' of epictv told me.
In summary, I would definitely buy them again!
A little Stiff first time, but became confortable soon. Very precise and sensitive.
Just need to see if they are durable
Like it a lot
Love the Scarpa Instinct VS. I've been using them for years now. Got a second pair too. Perfect fitting for my wide feet! Perfect for bouldering and sport climbing, with a sensitivity unmatched! Would recommend it to everyone.
I always used to buy shoes from the same American brand, lets call them "Divisible by five". But they never really fitted my feet, particularly the down turned ones, because of my wide hobbit feet. Then one day my girlfriend suggested the I experiment with other brands and I found that Scarpa's were the only ones that fitted my wide feet and I got a pair of Instinct VS. I really like them, they are very precise, edge well and the heel is very precise. However, the glue is not the best as it tends to peel at the toe box as well as on the heel (but you can always cut the excess off the heel, which incidently makes them ideal for certain boulder problems). Despite the glue problem I am now converted to Scarpas and currently own two pairs of different Instincts and a pair of Stix. If Scarpa could glue their shoes so they are indestructible I would never even consider other shoes!
From an absolutely phenomenal vacuum fit heel to a super sensitive toe, these all round shoes are for anyone willing to take their climbing to the next level. Absolutely superb.