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Scarpa Furia Air Climbing Shoe
The Furia Air from Scarpa is the lightest climbing shoe in the world and feels like no other climbing shoe on the market. The Fura air is ideal for competition climbing, bouldering and sport climbing, with its MLT tension system which gives you great power in your big to stand on small edges, volumes or sloppy smears. The heal has a TAS system that gives this extremely flexible elastic shoe some dynamic support. The fantastic sensitivity that the Furia provides is because of the insole Scarpa has used, a 1mm thick flex medial strip which provides you with the utmost sensitivity and precision.
The upper on the Furia Air is made from a new bi-component perforated microfibre which weighs only 150g! It also packs smaller than an apple according to Scarpa, good if you are very space conscious, or if you only you have room for one apple and one pair of shoes. The upper has a seamless Alcantara big toe patch and offset four toe stitch which gives you the best moulding and custom fit.
So if you are looking for a performance shoe that is great for competition climbing, bouldering and sport climbing, which is very light and fits like a glove then the Furia Air is for you!
|Upper material|| |
|Closure type|| |
Baltic Blue / Yellow
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Grip
|Sole thickness|| |
Sole: Vibram XS Grip S2 3 mm
4 product reviews
If you are into soft shoes this is the best one. Rubber super stickie, good on slabs and overhang. Don’t know if will be my choice for face climbing on small edges, probably not.
I’m size 41 on chimera/ Drago, this model need sized down a full size, 40 it’s good for me.
overall great shoe, I love the sensitivity. The only thing I don't like is the heel - I am used to the instinct heel which sucks to my heel....the heel of the Furia has too much air on my feet.
Female perspective here for this "unisex" shoe:
Short summary: very sensitive, very comfortable for an aggressive shoe, too much room in the heel cup, street size 37 sized down to a 36 in this shoe.
More details: I've been climbing in Scarpa Technos for years now. First the Techno, then the Techno X. These were fantastic shoes for outdoor climbing - flat, stiff, comfortable enough for all day wear but tight enough (with just a hair of toe curl) to provide power and avoid sloppiness. I wore a 37 in the Women's TechnoX and my street shoe size is 37 (size 6US).
Now that I only boulder indoors, and my gym has mostly overhanging routes, I thought I'd try a more aggressive, softer shoe for a change. I purchased the Furia Air in size 36. They weren't "comfortable" straight out of the box, but the wearing in process took about 1 climbing session, after which they became comfortable enough to wear an hour+ at a time. I have small feet, they're not "pudgy", but they're not narrow either. I found the forefoot fit perfectly, in terms of providing that "snug hug" feeling. The back rode up a bit high on my achilles, which I was initially concerned about, but it was not bothersome or uncomfortable after wearing them in. Unfortunately, there's some deadspace in the heel cup. My heel is just not pointy or bulbous enough to fill it. You know how some people have big chins and some people don't? I guess my heel just doesn't have enough volume to fill this shoe, and I'm guessing that may apply for many women. Sizing down would probably not work, as the length of this shoe is perfect. Honestly, the deadspace hasn't been a huge problem yet, but it can make heel hooks feel slightly sloppy and it's unfortunate for such an expensive shoe. Ladies, if you have narrow feet, I'm not sure this shoe will work for you.
Regarding performance: smearing in this shoe is fantastic! Toe hooks and toeing into holds on overhangs is fantastic! Sensitivity is fantastic! It made me realize how sloppy my footwork has gotten. Edging is painful, especially compared to my Technos. Maybe that will change as my feet get stronger (thanks to this shoe).
The shoe is indeed very light, and I suspect it will wear out quickly given how thin the rubber is. Time will tell. If you have the $$, I think this is a really nice shoe to force you into good footwork. I enjoy climbing in them, but I don't know if I will repurchase when they wear out. Is it unisex? Almost. Scarpa, please make a low heel volume version of this!
These are top notch shoes for bouldering. They only have rubber in the places where it is needed, which means they are incredibly light. They are also very comfortable despite being pretty aggressively down turned because the mid sole has no rubber so when you're wandering around they bend with your tread, whereas when you're on overhanging routes they bounce back ti their downturned shape. The upper is made from lovely soft synthetic material which is also comfy.
Nice sharp edges *when new obviously, and decent heel rubber for heel hooking.
I wouldn't recommend these for trad but I assume its boulderers and sport climbers thst would be interested in these anyway. 5*