La Sportiva Solution Comp Climbing Shoe
The Solution Comp is a softer version of the famous Solution. It is designed for climbing inside on plastic and competition climbing, that's not to say they don't perform well on rock. Unlike the Solution, the Solution Comp has a thin heel which adds a great amount of sensitivity to the shoe giving you loads of feedback when your heel hooking making it great at heel hooking tiny edges. The Solution Comp has a 1.1mm laspo flex midsole that supports your foot enough to be great at standing on small edges but it also has enough flex for smearing, making it a great shoe for bouldering and sport climbing.
Now if your into your toe hooks you will love the amount of rubber on the Solution Comp, it covers almost the whole of the toe area even more than the Solution making it fantastic at toe hooking. The Solution Comp has La Sportiva's famous P3 system which keeps the shape of the shoe throughout its life, so they will keep their performance until you have to retire them. So to sum up the Solution Comp is an amazing new shoe for competition climbers and people looking to push their grade indoors and out whether that's on a rope or bouldering.
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Vibram XS Grip 2
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P3® Permanent Power Platform
After intensive abuse, downturned climbing shoes can start to lose their distinctive shape. La Sportiva’s P3 rand system prevents from this happening so your shoe maintains its powerful profile, permanently.
5 product reviews
At this point, there is no other shoe that fits me better than this one.
The heel, toe, and smearing all perform highly in gym bouldering.
I have only one complaint. The laces are weak and break easily.
If this problem goes away, I won't need anything else but this shoe.
Great product very comfortable perfect for big volumes.
I bought them to replace my pair of scarpa drago, so i wanted an aggressive and soft shoes to use in the gym.
Not just the fit my feet much better than the drago in the front, as they are lower volume and more narrow in the toe box, but they fit much better also in the heel area.
However you really need to get your size right, as the closure system does not add a lot of value in terms of fit, in other words, if you do not close, the fit does not change that much.
Super rubber, very precise, good fit, i cannot comment on durability yet, but they seem to will be able to add more colour on durability in a couple of months, however it is a very-well structured shoe and is not loosing the aggressive shape (the dragos do after few times you wear them).
I got these to replace a failed set of the regular Solutions.
Very happy, as the thinner heel fits better and is more comfortable (does not dig into my ankle as before) and the more flexible sole makes them ideal for smearing and new-style setting for bouldering gyms using a lot of volumes.
At 80kg, I like them less than the regular sportivas for certain routes where the thinner sole makes things less comfortable, and the sole provides less of a platform for when you've got all of your weight on a tiny foothold. I can imagine routes that involve smearing would be just fine.
I've been using the Solution Comp for just over a month now, mostly in the gym but also one week outside in Fontainebleau. I found a good fit by sizing these shoes the same as my regular Solutions (2 sizes down from street). The Solution Comp is a bit softer than the regular Solution for two main reasons. First , the midsole is 0.9mm of LaspoFlex vs 1.1mm for the regular men's Solution. Second, the softer (and not molded) design of the new heel makes the entire structure of the shoe a bit softer. The overall increase in softness means this shoe breaks in quite a bit faster than the original. I'm a huge fan of the precision of the toe on the original Solution and I'm happy to report that this is unchanged in the Solution Comp. In fact, the toebox feels the same as the original except that it smears a bit better due to the softer midsole. Surprisingly, I've found the edging performance to feel almost identical to the original Solution- standing on small holds still feels secure and precise, but this could also be in part because I'm a lighter climber (~63kg). I was not the biggest fan of the molded "ball" heel on the original Solution which lacked sensitivity and usability on small holds. The new heel is an improvement in this sense- the thin center strip of rubber on the heel is quite hard (not as hard as the molded heel but harder than a Drago or Instinct heel) and allows for secure hooks on micro holds. The sides of the heel are quite soft in comparison. I think I personally would have preferred the center strip to be a bit softer for even more sensitivity, but for me it is a huge improvement to the ball heel and works well on a greater variety of holds. The new heel is lower volume and sits a bit lower on the back of the foot than the original, which for me isn't necessarily good or bad- pulling hard on hooks felt very secure, but the new feel did take me some time to get used to. The shoes are marketed as indoor "comp" shoes, but they also work great outside. I appreciated the extra softness for smearing on sandstone in Fontainebleau, but I still felt the confidence coming from the precision of the toe I was used to from the original Solution in standing on small chips and in pockets. During the Font trip, I found myself reaching for this shoe first over my regular Solutions and Dragos as it covers many aspects that I like about those two shoes all in one. In general, I would recommend this shoe for indoor or outdoor use to anyone who (like me) loves the toe of the original Solution, but wants a more sensitive and precise heel in the direction of the Instinct or Drago and is also ok with the shoe being a bit softer overall.