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La Sportiva Otaki Climbing Shoe
The La Sportiva Otaki is a versatile, all-round climbing shoe designed with support and edging performance for long sport climbing with an aggressive shape suited for bouldering.
A popular shoe in the shop, probably due to being built on the same last as the high-performance, overhanging and steepness lover, the Skwama, and, surprisingly for a stiff shoe, has a similar level of sensitivity. Unlike the Skwama, the Otaki features a much stiffer midsole and Vibram XS Edge rubber. With this increased foot support, inflexibility, and harder rubber, the Otaki will be much better for climbers on vertical routes with more edging. La Sportiva haven't taken away all technical performance though! To make this shoe a true all-rounder, they've included the S-Heel™, an "incompressible piece of rubber" that stabilises and controls heel hooks and blocks to keep you stuck onto the hold, as well as sectioned toe rubber. It also features the P3® rand system that maintains the powerful shape of the shoe over time! (Some shoes tend to stretch too much and so lose their performance-shape.)
The Otaki uses a microfibre / suede leather upper with linings in the front and back, so expect there to be some level of stretch in the shoe, but not too much. It's hard to predict with these types of uppers and linings, but it should be up to half a size. La Sportiva also recommend fitting this shoe on the looser side for a comfortable performance fit. And, if you want a slightly stiffer shoe, try the laced version, the Kataki.
|Upper material|| |
|Closure type|| |
|Sizing and fit|| |
Blue / Flame
0.22 kg (Size 40 EU)
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Edge
|Sole thickness|| |
Front and Back Only
Vibram XS Edge™
Rubber compound built for maximum performance on micro holds and extreme edging. This formula uses an improved plastic deformation resistance that ensures the utmost stability, rigidity, and support on footholds in hot or cold weather, as well as generally increasing durability.
P3® Permanent Power Platform
After intensive abuse, downturned climbing shoes can start to lose their distinctive shape. La Sportiva’s P3 rand system prevents from this happening so your shoe maintains its powerful profile, permanently.
Full Features List
• Patented S-Heel™ construction provides optimal heel hooking manoeuvrability and the perfect heel cup fit
• Laser-cut uppers reduce stitching and bulk
6 product reviews
A well built solid shoe. I use these for sport climbing and bouldering both indoor and out. They are superb for heel hooks thanks to the s heel. They work wonders on overhangs thanks to the downturned toe but smearing is still good.
They took a good few weeks to stretch and wear in and still fit tightly. I wouldn't recommend for extended all day constant wear.
Excellent for edging and enables you to put a lot of power down through the toe.
This shoe behaves similar to a Miura Vs but has a better heel construction. It feels snug and works great on small placements. If you have been looking for sizing advice on the internet the general opinion is that it sizes just the same as Miura VS. Not in my opinion. I have 41,5 street shoe size and use miura VS 39,5 for bouldering and 40 for comfortable sport climbing. I bought these shoes at size 40 to substitute my sport climbing miura VS but otaki were quite more roomy on the toe box. I would say 39,5 otaki= 40 miura Vs. for other models of la sportiva, the comparison is not so obvious because the fit is quite different, but i use 39 Futura and they feel similar to me.
It is also worth noting that these shoes DO NEED to be warmed in cold days if you want to be able to put them without any pain. The velcro straps work quite well for adjusting plant and toe spaces but fail at adjusting the angle of the foot for overhangs ( something that Futuras do brilliantly).
This is an edging shoe which does the edging work for you, which means you need to adapt to it and develop a faith that it will stick on the holds due to the stiff and thick rubber. (not a con, but worth noting).
Overall, great shoe with excellent building quality.
This shoe fits like a glove. It is super precise ons small ridges. I love them!!!!
A great shoe! Hasn't arrived yet in Greece but I was lucky that a friend introduced them to me. Great grip, and control. They have a unique feeeling from supporting the foot, holding the heel and allocating the forces when stepped correctly. Moreover, great design :) Totally getting a second pair
I'm a big fan of Miura VS and this shoe is practically the same fit but with better heel hook and some toehook. Great shoe!