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Five Ten Aleon Climbing Shoe
The Five Ten Aleon is an aggressive shoe designed for hard boulder problems with really small footholds. It's a powerful, extremely precise shoe which, thanks to Adidas' plethora of resources, features new materials and new manufacturing processes to improve its comfort, fit, and performance.
Traditionally, Five Ten's climbing shoes have been designed with a rounded toe-box. However, Five Ten's new shoe designer, Fred Nicole, a Swiss cobbler with years of experience repairing and dissecting Five Ten's climbing shoes, has designed the Aleon with a pointier toe and wider forefoot to really direct the shoe's precision towards the big toe. Nicole has also implemented a high arch and strong heel-toe tension to amplify the the big toe's power, making the Aleon extremely precise and powerful on edges and small footholds.
One of the main tools Five Ten have borrowed from Adidas' toolbox is Primeknit, a four-way stretch material that's digitally-knitted into the shoe. This allows Five Ten to fine-tune the amount of flexibility and support of the tongue. The result is a very tight-fitting tongue which, thanks to the extra flexibility, is still easy to take on and off.
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Stealth C4 Rubber
• Stealth C4 rubber for the greatest versatility on all rock types
• Rubber's concaved edge provides a solid edging platform
• Midsole with diamond-shaped increases flex but maintains edging support
• Seamless inner reduces painful hotspots and improves overall comfort
• Precision laser-edged rands are more malleable, will fit a greater range of foot shapes, and relieve pressure on the heel
• Lined microfibre upper won't stretch to maintain the shoe's aggressive shape
Stealth® C4™ Rubber
A high-friction rubber used on the majority of Five Ten’s shoes due of its all-round performance and versatility. Five Ten first debuted this rubber on the original approach shoe, the Five Tennie, in 1985, and since then Stealth rubber has always been developed by Five Ten themselves in direct conjunction with their shoes, unlike other shoe manufacturers who outsource their rubber. The result is a rubber that works with your shoe harmoniously.
6 product reviews
I have to say I love this shoe. the only problem i have with them is that my foot shape doesn´t fit perfectly. I have 'greek' feet so they get pretty painful after a while. I guess if you have 'egyptian' feet they´re perfect!!! I wear them in my street shoe size which is perfect...
have fun with them
I have a bit of trouble finding climbing shoes that keep my feet happy. Some years ago, I found the 5.10 Teams fit well enough and gave me grip I wanted for the steep stuff I enjoy. Then came the Great Drought of Five Ten, where no downturned 5.10 were available ANYWHERE in the UK. Since these bad boys came out, I'm thrilled to say I have binned two pairs of ill fitting, bought-out-of-desperation shoes.
These shoes are slightly more voluminous than the old Teams, there's always space over the top of my foot where the velcro wraps in. The velcro system is great at eliminating that particular problem. There's a nice narrow heel, decent amount of down-turn, and nice medium-soft rubber. The famous Adidas fabric fitting technology is great, it really is like fitting an oddly shaped sock, and there's no danger of heelhooks stealing shoes away. They are highly sensitive after a few sessions, and can be worn loose enough to "walk" on volumes comfortably, edge on tiny no-shadow footholds and pull hard on steep stuff.
Talking about rubber, these shoes are coated in it. It's actually hard to plant any bit of my feet on a hold with this shoe and not stick. Heelhooks and toehooks and weird technical-drag-with-the-side things all work great.
The rubber does wear out quicker than I would've liked, I wore down a pair in roughly 5 months, but did all my training, comps, and outdoor climbing in them for that time.
A great all-rounder, not the absolute best in any particular style or angle, but close enough to not matter. Comfortable.
Me he quedado sorprendido por el gran trabajo de construcción de este gato es semirigido pero tiene una gran fuerza al pisar presas pequeñas, pero luego se adapta perfectamente a las adherencias y pies romos. Su talon sorprende por su eficacia tiene una adaptación brutal. Para mí son ahora mismo lo mejor para escalar tanto en placa exigente como en grandes desplomes un todo terreno para nuestros grandes proyectos, ahora si que no hay excusas para tachar
Within the first few session with this shoe, I fell in love with the feeling you get having these on when you climb. I followed the advice of other reviews online and bought the Aleon the same size (42EU) I wear in my street shoes. There is not even a tiny amount of air left between shoe and foot. Even with the velcro open, you really have to find an extreme heel hook to get these shoes of your feet ;-). Until now, I used them for bouldering and sportclimbing (both indoors) so I cannot give any information on how they feel on real rock.
On plastic holds however, the precision is brilliant. Before the Aleon, my goto shoe was the la sportiva solutions which are quite similar when you compare the agressiveness. Compared to the Solutions, the Aleons are a little stiffer (there is some resemblance of a mid-sole) and all around a tighter fit (especially at the heal). Others might find the tighter fit a little painful or unpleasent, I actually take them off, after I climbed a route.
I find it almost impossible to say anything bad about them. The stealth sole is quite soft, so they probably will wear down quite fast, but in turn the grip is considerable!
I've struggled with heels being oversized from other brands (Dragos, Iati, Arpias, BD-shoes), so I figured I'd give these a go as people say the 5.10 heels are quite narrow.
Turns out there's such a thing as too narrow! Even sizing these "comfortably" based on online reviews/experiences I could not physically fit my heel in the shoe without excruciating pain.
The positive takeaway is that the shoe seems very well put-together, and looks great, but you may have to have a childs heel to use it. :(