Evolv Oracle Climbing Shoe
The Oracle is an extreme climbing shoe, built to excel on steep terrain. Even though it is extremely aggressive it is still comfortable thanks to its "love bump" and "knuckle box", these features also provide the shoe with fantastic edging power and hooking ability especially when on steep ground. The midsole on the Oracle is a good level of medium stiffness so it doesn't take away from the sensitivity or smearing ability of the shoe but still provides you with enough support to stand on those tiny micro edges. An FSS heel tension system along with the Oracle's lacing system provides a very well-fitting heel that will provide a lot of power on tenuous heel hooks. The TRAX SAS rubber that is used on the Oracle is extremely sticky and will give you the confidence you need to trust your feet even on the slippiest of footholds. The Oracle is an ultimate powerhouse for hard sport climbing, bouldering and extreme trad climbing.
|Upper material|| |
|Closure type|| |
Blue / Grey / Red
|Sole material|| |
TRAX Rubber 4.2 mm
|Sole thickness|| |
> VEGAN FRIENDLY SYNTHETIC - Synthratek VX synthetic upper.
> FSS HEEL TENSIONER - Free-floating cord bonded under the ankle and looped through a metal eyelet then back down under the rand to pull tension through the arch and lock the foot into the shoe.
> SPLIT TONGUE WITH AGION® - Agion® Antimicrobial lining on the split tongue.
> SPEED LACE CLOSURE - Provides maximum fit and control as well as easy on and off.
> DARK SPINE - Heel midsole that protects the Calcaneus bone while heel hooking, and helps lock the heel into the shoe.
> KNUCKLE BOX - Makes room for your big toe knuckle to rest in a curled position without having to push fabric and rubber out of the way which causes hot spots in other shoes.
> LOVE BUMP - Fills dead space under your toes while putting much-needed energy towards the edging surface.
> SPLIT/OUTSOLE - For flexibility through the arch.
> MOLDED VTROur Variable Thickness Rand (VTR) system puts thinner rand rubber in areas to reduce pressure points and hot spots around the foot as well as thicker rubber for increased longevity in the high wear zones near the toe for durability and performance.
> TRAX® SAS - Best friction plus maximum durability.
2 product reviews
gave up on the butora gomi and tried to find a shoe that fits my wierd heel, these are the ones. There's very little deadspace in the heel but it makes up for it with a firm heel with surprisingly sticky rubber. It's flexible and great on overhanging routes and actually bomber on slab. Better for edging than volumes or slopy slopers but still great on those too. Toe patch is a bit small for my liking but not to bad and the lace up and tightening rand is fantastic for adjustability. all in all absolutely premo!
After experimenting with various shoes from Scarpa and La Sportiva over the years, I had come to believe I'd always have to deal with deadspace in the heel of my climbing shoes. It was thanks to a random comment in a reddit post that I started more actively looking into Evolv shoes. I can now confidently say the Oracle is by far the best fitting shoe I've ever worn, to the point I decided to leave my first climbing shoe review.
- foot shape - wide forefoot, narrow heel
- street shoe size - 43 (EU)
- Scarpa Furia S - 42
- Most La Sportiva models (i.e. Kataki, Solution, Genius, Miura, Cobra) - 41/40.5
- Evolv Oracle - 43
After 2 weeks with a few gym sessions in them and an outdoors trip, I have to admit I'm sold: the Oracles are extremely reliable and highly performant. They are very sticky and surprisingly sensitive on a wide variety of holds and angles. They also are bearably uncomfortable on long projecting sessions given the cushioning and adjustable laces, especially for such an aggressive shoe.
Performance notes (anecdotal):
- vertical to mildly overhanging walls up to 7a+ - highly reliable edging on pebbles, making them easy to trust on stretched out moves; can get quite uncomfortable/painful on prolonged vertical climbs; the slightly stiff midsole makes them less ideal for foot switches on narrow holds; surprisingly reliable on smears in spite of the aggresive downturn
- overhanging walls and roof climbs up to 7b - fantastic grip on downward sloping footholds, especially noticeable in outdoors roofs; amazing heel hooking for reliable topouts and long, powerful moves;
- crack climbs up to 6a - surprisingly comfortable and reliable for foot jams on regular widths
- bouldering up to 7a+ - insanely performant on anything slightly to very overhanging; great for high knee drops, high slopey heels and all kinds of funky moves
All in all, I highly recommend this shoe to my wide forefoot+narrow heel fellows who are looking to climb technical and overhanging routes. They especially shine outdoors, so baptize them at the crag asap