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The Edelrid OHM is an innovative, new solution for the problems experience by climbing partners with a significant difference in weight. What that means is the risk for a heavier climber if their lighter partner has difficulty controlling their falls, and the risk for a lighter belayer if they are pulled off the ground and hurled against the wall. This problem is particularly inherent within climbing couples, where men tend to be significantly heavier than women. You can, of course, use a weight bag to balance the weight difference, but they are highly impractical to take everywhere with you and restrict freedom of movement. Autoblocking belay devices also assist with braking, but without a weight bag, the belayer still faces a sudden pull and the leader a heavy fall.
The Edelrid OHM is an assisted-braking resistor that increases rope friction, allowing the lighter belayer to safely catch falls. The climber attaches the OHM to their harness with the rope run through it, and, when they reach the first bolt, they simply clip the OHM to the anchor like they normally would a quickdraw. In the event of a fall, the rope is pulled into the device's braking mechanism, which reduces the braking force needed to be applied by the belayer and prevents them from being suddenly pulled off the ground, decreases the fall height of the leader, and allows for safe, dynamic arresting.
The OHM is not designed to affect rope handling. It enables smooth paying out and taking in rope when climbing and belaying and has no negative affect on handling when used both in indoor gyms and for outdoor sport climbing.
The OHM benefits both climber and belayer. The belayer can feel safe knowing they won't be hurt and have much more control of their partner's fall, and the lead climber can climb to their limits knowing they will not face a severely harsh fall every time they climb. Compact and light, the Edelrid OHM has been designed to be easy to carry and easy to use both indoor and out, so belayer and climber can perform to their full abilities without restrictions.
|BREAKING STRENGTH||20 kN|
|ROPE DIAMETER||Single ropes from 8.9 - 11 mm|
Full Features List
• Fall and pull heights are greatly reduced, allowing climbers of different weights to climb as if there were no difference
• Belayer requires significantly less hand braking force to arrest a fall
• Lowering a heavier climber is much easier to control
• Clips onto the harness with the rope fed through, then is attached to the first bolt in the safety chain, exactly as a quickdraw is
• Rope handling when belaying a lead climber not affected (no additional friction when giving slack)
• Recommended weight difference (lead climber > belayer) 10 - 40 kg
7 product reviews
I'm 90kg and my girfriend 65kg. We mainly climb single pitch outdoors. We find this necessary not just for catching falls but lowering after cleaning a route too.
I'm a heavy clibmer. his item is very useful and safety item between me and belayers.
Great device, easy to handle, better safe to guarantee the pleasure from climbing with your much lighter partner and concentrate on the rock details.
I am a heavy dude and my best lead belayers are lighter than I would like for a belayer. That has always concerned and affected my mental game when leading. I sometimes don’t lead some higher grades because I don’t want to fall and kick my friends. I recently got this device and only tested in indoor. Amazing.
It does not only prevent crushes with your belayer, but also soften the fall. It now gives me the confidence to climb harder without fearing a big fall.
I got it with outdoor purposes, and I am afraid I won’t be able to test it till summer, but I don’t think it’s going to make much difference. Great item, best value
I bought this device to safely climb with my girlfriend. We have a 30+ kg weight mismatch.
Before we got the Ohm, I did not feel at ease because it had happened that after a fall, I could see her in great difficulty being violently pulled against the wall. So I would usually climb something easier to have both feel safe.
Now I am much more confident when I climb with her, and enjoy our gym sessions a lot.
One recommendation is not to use it outdoor or whenever the line of the bolts is not approximately straight. Every review I could find on line failed to mention that this, and we had to learn it the hard way! Ohm will engage during the lowering, but if you sum that friction to the drag of the rope into meandering quickdraws (5-6 is already enough), it will be nearly impossible to get down.
Highly recommended for the gym, not likewise outdoor.