The Edelrid OHM is an innovative, new solution for the problems experience by climbing partners with a significant difference in weight. What that means is the risk for a heavier climber if their lighter partner has difficulty controlling their falls, and the risk for a lighter belayer if they are pulled off the ground and hurled against the wall. This problem is particularly inherent within climbing couples, where men tend to be significantly heavier than women. You can, of course, use a weight bag to balance the weight difference, but they are highly impractical to take everywhere with you and restrict freedom of movement. Autoblocking belay devices also assist with braking, but without a weight bag, the belayer still faces a sudden pull and the leader a heavy fall.
The Edelrid OHM is an assisted-braking resistor that increases rope friction, allowing the lighter belayer to safely catch falls. The climber attaches the OHM to their harness with the rope run through it, and, when they reach the first bolt, they simply clip the OHM to the anchor like they normally would a quickdraw. In the event of a fall, the rope is pulled into the device's braking mechanism, which reduces the braking force needed to be applied by the belayer and prevents them from being suddenly pulled off the ground, decreases the fall height of the leader, and allows for safe, dynamic arresting.
The OHM is not designed to affect rope handling. It enables smooth paying out and taking in rope when climbing and belaying and has no negative affect on handling when used both in indoor gyms and for outdoor sport climbing.
The OHM benefits both climber and belayer. The belayer can feel safe knowing they won't be hurt and have much more control of their partner's fall, and the lead climber can climb to their limits knowing they will not face a severely harsh fall every time they climb. Compact and light, the Edelrid OHM has been designed to be easy to carry and easy to use both indoor and out, so belayer and climber can perform to their full abilities without restrictions.
|BREAKING STRENGTH||20 kN|
|ROPE DIAMETER||Single ropes from 8.9 - 11 mm|
Full Features List
• Fall and pull heights are greatly reduced, allowing climbers of different weights to climb as if there were no difference
• Belayer requires significantly less hand braking force to arrest a fall
• Lowering a heavier climber is much easier to control
• Clips onto the harness with the rope fed through, then is attached to the first bolt in the safety chain, exactly as a quickdraw is
• Rope handling when belaying a lead climber not affected (no additional friction when giving slack)
• Recommended weight difference (lead climber > belayer) 10 - 40 kg
11 product reviews
For climbers with more than 15-20kg of weight difference, this a must-have. It makes belaying for the lighter person much easier and safer.
I am so happy that I bought the OHM. I weigh 230 pounds and I have never had a Belayer heavier than me. After taking a gnarly 28 foot fall in the gym and injuring my partner by shooting her into the first clip I thought that it was time to finally get this product. It works so amazing and I could never speak highly enough about it. The biggest thing is that it makes me such a more confident climber because I know that I’m going to get caught when I fall. My fear of falling Has lowered significantly and has allowed me to go for Harder moves and harder red points. If you or someone you know is on the heavier side as a climber this product cannot be recommended enough. The single and only downside is that it is a little confusing to set up sometimes and you have to clip it in a specific way to the Bolt Hanger otherwise it won’t work, and while figuring out how to place it correctly took a while, after we did it was so worth it. Would absolutely buy this again if I ever were to lose mine.
Works but need some experience from the belayer because when the OHM goes up after a fall or from a quick move, need to give slack to unlock in other case the climber can't go up or when the route is high and the climber fall, due to friction and from rope elasticity it's difficult to continue.
I'm 90kg and my girfriend 65kg. We mainly climb single pitch outdoors. We find this necessary not just for catching falls but lowering after cleaning a route too.